After his all-white Spring show, Ralph Lauren turned in a serious, elegant Fall collection that was almost entirely black. The high-ceilinged library of his Madison Avenue headquarters formed an appropriately scholarly backdrop for a show that embraced historical references best seen in a lovely fitted, puff sleeve Victorian top that stopped just above the waistline for a sexy glimpse of skin.
The designer kept silhouettes clean and close to the body, lending texture to his outfits by juxtaposing humble and high-scale, rough and supple: cotton cargo pants worn with a soft ruffled chiffon shirt and a supple velvet jacket, for example, or a cropped embroidered shearling jacket over a clinging velvet gown.
Jackets are making a concerted comeback, and Lauren offered a baker's dozen, each with its own attitude. Downtown hipsters will pick the cropped, fitted styles, or put the reworked chalk stripe morning coat with a pair of jeans; uptown types will love the ladylike styles that hug the waist and flare slightly over the hips.
The biggest news was Lauren's new strength in eveningwear, which ranged from stay at home elegance a beaded cashmere sweater and wool flannel pants to the all-out glamour of embroidered silk gowns. Being in a black mood never looked so good.
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